Explore London’s diverse Indian dining scene, from century-old recipes to contemporary interpretations, with National Curry Week as your guide. By Chris Johnson.
Few foods have become as firmly embedded in British culture as curry. The capital’s relationship with Indian cooking stretches back centuries, shaped by generations of restaurateurs who introduced diners to a range of regional flavours. National Curry Week (5-11 Oct) is the perfect excuse to explore that story.
Begin on Regent Street at Veeraswamy, which is celebrating its centenary this year. Opened in 1926, Britain’s oldest Indian restaurant remains one of the city’s grandest dining rooms. Its Anglo-Indian mulligatawny soup comes from the original menu, while the Hyderabadi lamb salan curry is a stalwart of the 1947 menu. Whizz up in the lift, then settle among rich colours, velvet and views of Regent Street.
For an accessible introduction to India’s diversity, try Masala Zone. Its Piccadilly Circus, Covent Garden and Soho branches suit sightseers. At Piccadilly, choose a chicken, lamb, fish or vegetable thali, accompanied by vegetables, dal, rice or chapattis, papad and chutney. The former Criterion dining room supplies spectacular decor without demanding a special-occasion budget.
Those with deeper pockets might like to turn to the Michelin-starred Quilon, near Buckingham Palace, where chef Sriram Aylur specialises in Indian coastal cooking. Seafood takes centre stage in dishes such as seafood moilee and lobster with butter and garlic, while sharing plates and a seasonal tasting menu encourage exploration.
In classy Mayfair, book ahead for Gymkhana. Inspired by India’s elite social clubs, this Michelin-starred restaurant serves modern classics including kid goat methi keema with salli and pao, and chicken butter masala. Nearby on Heddon Street, Ambassadors Clubhouse brings an exuberant mood. Its Punjabi menu ranges from barbecue butter chicken chops to lasooni salmon tikka; downstairs, mirrored ceilings and music turn dinner into a party.
Darjeeling Express has a story as compelling as its food. Chef and campaigner Asma Khan leads its celebrated all-women kitchen, championing cooks whose knowledge developed in family homes. Now on Soho’s Rupert Street, it serves sharing plates influenced by Khan’s Calcutta childhood.
Finally, at Farzi London in Haymarket, traditional flavours meet playful presentation and modern techniques. The lunch thali is great value, while inventive cocktails make it a lively choice before or after a show.
Together, these restaurants demonstrate that ‘curry’ is neither one dish nor one tradition. In London, it encompasses historic recipes, coastal refinement and home-style hospitality, often within a few Tube stops of one another.
